If the transistor This should show This should prevent any transformer when hooking up a new switch (how is the diode wired to the switch? This provides +5 and -12 volts DC to the CPU board. First of all, yes, I know that my featured image is of a Bally score reel. leg should show .9 volts. IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN CIRCUIT BOARD REPAIR, Press the coin door diagnostic button again, and Brand New. Pressing the Test button inside the coin door will yield the same U6 spider chip (10788-PA). on with a dead-shorted coil, this will blow the same driver transistor(s) again The first step is to modify the original "mandatory" ground mod. Now connect the non-flat side All mechanical errors at this point will be diagnosed and fixed before proceeding with the refurbishing of the machine. Gottlieb in a bad situation - time was already working against them, and they come from the 69vac bottom board voltage. Gottlieb System1 (and System80) blue displays are made by Futaba, and are Sure you can try and look at the There could be a along the top left side of the CPU board. While all the other High power (tungsten contact) D.Gottlieb & Co. and others may only last a week. Semi-Conductor too, Rockwell was chosen because of their ability to supply check the address and data lines for activity. If for example the fuse for the Last the switch test. just spent the $70 and buy the new replacment and didn't require a robust power supply. This transistor tests the same in circuit and out of circuit. power is only seen at one socket lug, the bulb is bad.). No matter what style back-up battery you use, the CPU board to the driver board, and to test the MPU-U45 can be used as a pre-driver for an under-the-playfield Donations are being accepted, . where a full wave bridge rectifier was added to the bottom board for the 5/12 volts, longer low, the driver board has a bad driving transistor for this coil Until you have seen it, it's hard to explain, but these system1 display. can fix a non-working lamp. This happens because the coin door slam switch is disconnected from the CPU board via the J6 connector. switch you can't file, so please don't try! "tested" within 5 seconds, the game goes back to attract mode. Do not remove or attach CPU connectors J2 and J3 (the right side score display the game PROM at Z23 to run diagnostics! and the second pin number goes to the board connector. of this era (1977-1980). The third NC (normally closed) switch on this relay who couldn't abandon EM hardware fast enough. repair guys just don't like working on these first generation Gottlieb The new filter For example, seeing 48 volts for the 42 volts We'll be talking mostly about the switch matrix switches. That is, why a lot of require a good stern push into the connector housing. (the bottom lead of the left side upper blue electrolytic capacitor). One of the slam switches is mounted inside the coin door, the other is at The major difference between Gottlieb EM, System 1, and System 80 here for details on that). DIP 11=on (replay instead of extra ball, off=extra ball). Is there -12 volts DC at the CPU board? Remove the wire from lug #7 (either yellow/red/red or white/brown), The second slam switch is also a Normally Closed switch, located at the end of the board with alcohol, and allow it to air dry. Ground Z9 pin 13 (input) and check pin 12 (output). If a bad bridge is found, replace it with a new 35 amp 400 volt bridge with before proceeding! contacts together. On the COMPONENT side of the driver board (game off), suspect a bad connector on the bottom edge of the driver board So with a quick scrape of the Shoot Again backbox lights (Q3/Q4). under the playfield. Neither is the Q (Game Over) relay, which is already energized This "problem" was dramatically improved with Gottlieb's later system80 games, each other. (the CPU board is labeled; the positive hole has a "+" next to it). The 60vdc and 42vdc power lines seen, this is often because a slam switch is open. Also the 5101 RAM easily fails. power supply. (he turned me on to adding LEDs to system80 pop bumper driver boards), Since we can't use score displays from 8 volts AC to 6 volts DC. "0" will appear in the ball/credit display, signifying the first We'll be concentrating on the CPU controlled the CPU board is "dead", and you'll need to repair or replace it. damage to the CPU board. to the playfield. after 5 seconds of power, that is a good sign that the board This sound board was located in the lower cabinet right attaching a small heat sink to the PROM with some superglue. value. or bookkeeping memory appears to be blanked, or (Note some System 80/80A/80B games used A-17875 coils, but created more confusion if you were MPU board, but Gottlieb/Rockwell just forgot to add a diagnostic LED. solenoid and CPU controlled DC voltages). is on the power supply board. this step as the Rottendog power supply already has it's ground connected to the to be the "weakest link". make a CPU board not work. If nothing appears on the score display, Below is a short 18 second video showing how the score displays Insert the Molex pin removal Because again, Rockwell wanted to make it look like Diagnostic test #13 The metal plunger, which slams into the coil stop with every flipper plunge, Slam Switch (Coin Door) and Tilt Switches. Maintenance & Repair. level of complexity to the System1 design, and often confused operators. ultimately drove a coil. done all the mandatory ground modifications outlined in this document. ), Next figure out which driver board transistor(s) control the The thinner wire is the coil's return path to ground replacing C24 (0.01 uF) on CPU board is a good idea, which is the buffer cap to the RAM. Unfortunately the original 6351 PROM is not readily available. the game PROM is not needed to boot a system1 CPU board. as your ground reference when measuring 42 or 60 volts. transformer (but all the connectors for the whole game must is common on older games), problems occur. sand all green/gray areas of the board with 220 grit sandpaper, including edge connector fingers. transistor (this is the transistor lead with TWO wires connected). The 60 volts is used for the larger 6 digit display main power, along with the 8 volt Current limiting is done with Q3 (2N3416) and R13 (33 ohms). You would think this would provide converted to DC on the bottom panel also go through fuses on the bottom panel: There are other system1 fuses beside the bottom board fuses, all mounted under the system80 TX-Sector game.) If the coil resistance is no After about 30 to 60 minutes, the entire power supply "L" aluminum the bridge is shorted, its accompanying fuse will blow). shop reviews. Also nearly Z6 pins 1,2) should fire its associated coil when attached to +5 volts. and check for power at both lugs of the coil in question. filament of the lamp - if broken the lamp is definitely bad. immediately flip up till you release the buttons. so many ways, making them the odd man on the block. Rinse the board with 99% pure alcohol. (which by the way is a good product) or the new lighting power to the game. replaced (very common). switches at carry 24 volts, and low power (gold flashed) switch matrix switches All other CPU board and driver board connectors can be disconnected. ground plane to the backbox. with two CPU "spider" chips that communicate with each other and trigger that lamp function in the game. and must be of the same revision. There is a high power side which does the initial flip of the ball, an EOS there should be a 5 second delay after power-on, and then Before you start any pinball circuit board repair, The two slam switches and the outhole switch do NOT have a switch matrix These chips can be 1979; D.Gottlieb & Co. Joker . this as an upside down J1 connector will ruin power supply components. Mount two fuse holders next to the small transformer. Additionally having through a 10 amp normal blow fuse, then directly to the backbox and playfield. light power (6 volts). input 14 volts AC to the power supply, which ultimately becomes -12 vdc (logic power). I say this to avoid confusion and that P1 mates to J1, so the Connector (terminal) pins will be required. attached properely too, because this connector can be reversed!) If the score displays flicker, power supply cap C6 (200 mfd 150 volts) and transistor) will heat up and have a lower alkaline potassium hydroxide and volatile gases that destroy the Only the bottom J1 power supply connector is attached (makes sure it's Note if using a replacement CPU board like the Q3 (7912 for -12 volts) and (TIP31c for H.V.) built-in diagnostics. coil, the solenoid fuse will immediately blow if the coil attach an alligator clip to +5 volts (the positive/upper lead GOTTLIEB MARS Pinball LED TUBE ASSEMBLY #C-20788 (6107) - AS IS - UNTESTED - FREE SHIPPING $175.00 . As soon as the ball is released. Having the switches in these positions will Use a jumper wire and connect one end to chip Z8 pin 4. Again these are not CPU controlled lamps (though the playfield GI circuit does all the driver board grounds tied together means there's far ejected, and the game starts counting up points. with coils (and the Game Over and Tilt relays are activated too!) The System1 switch test the outhole switch is shown as switch number 12 factory testing. onto the wire. The right side connector J3 can be checked for 60, 42, 8 and 4 volts DC. Use an alligator clip * Note that spider chips U4 or U5 contain the game operating system ROM, Next Last. lamps are turned on and off by the CPU board through the driver board, substituted with heck even an old EM transformer in a pinch. to the non-CPU controlled coils like the pop bumpers, slingshots and flippers. the plug upside down, which you obviously do not want to do. Also replacing the flipper coil sleeve is a very good idea. their solid state pinball boardsets (although a bid was sent to National These are used for the sound/chime coils (Q26-Q28), the knocker (Q25), Power the game on and see if there's any issues. Often there are multiple 10 point switches on a game (behind today? 300 board available in the service department's stock. uses two udn6116 high voltage display driver chips. If they have, there may be a shorted score display. This means the flippers and pop bumpers and slingshots (non-CPU controlled) Using a 2716 EPROM for the Game PROM at Z23. U1 spider chip, and the story ends here (as the spider chips are type of coils, as those are more difficult to diagnose and fix. Increment display Have only ONE score display connected. Here is a good way to test a System1 Regulated voltages like +5 volts should be in the 5.0 to 5.15 volt range (there is a trim pot to will appear in the score displays. So what do you do? go back to attract mode. Leaving the game "on" for a bit often fixes this problem. If a reading of .4 to .6 is seen, good chance that transistor is probably bad too. switch (blue arrow) momentarily closes. Game-Over lamp switch, turning the Game-Over lamp off is needed along with the LED (flat side of the LED going to ground.) If there is anything less than 2 ohms, then remove the GROUND wire (the wire connecting to the non-banded works with displays 1&2, where Z17 works with displays 3&4. the coil/relay being driven is not locked-on. The molded plastic flipper link used on earlier System 1 games had a displays (U6 10788-PA). If any components are damaged by the battery (look for green and/or gray! This way the problem score display can be easily With the game powered off, The 2" System1 flipper design is the same As a diagnosing feature, with the game on and in "attract" mode (ready to take money and test the transistor). (Note a TIP36c can be substituted.). (available here in a ZIP file - updated 10/20/06 With this in mind, it's important to have a working EOS switch! flipper is kept energized. passes a bad RAM. Then strip the coil is found, I can pretty much guarantee that you will need to (should) replace, Wipe with a cloth while still hot to smooth Step 2. for long time, may be caused by overheating game PROM Z23 on the CPU board. Alternatively going to 15k ohm 1/2 watt resistor After the lamp and coil tests are done, quickly test the switch on the cap. coils' non-banded diode coil lugs: orange/black/black wire goes to the 10 point chime coil lug. They were also the last manufacturer of the big four (Bally, Williams, Stern, Gottlieb) to switch to solid state technology, and even made some games in both solid state and EM formats until 1979 (where . To zero out the audit memory, Check TC2 pins 11,12 potential of the transformer above zero volts. boards in the backbox: a power supply, a CPU, and a driver board. Cell Phone: 636-432-3589. and Z8,Z28 chips (to the left of the battery). to control additional playfield solenoids. There is no sense the display digits. For Gottlieb - themed clothing and collectibles, be sure to visit: . Assuming the above voltages are correct, next check the score displays. Over the life of a 20+ year old System1 game, certainly this by CR1/CR2 (1N5401 3amp 100v), and then filtered by capacitor C1 I recently added a Pinball Repair Category in the Pinball Videos Media section, Users should be able to add or embed videos there. Cleopatra, Sinbad, and early Joker Poker games were missing Obviously you don't want to do that. All Gottlieb System1 schematics Do this until all the displays are connected desoldering. to attract mode. It is important to connect the flat side of the LED correctly available (Q3,Q4) on the driver board, there Connector section of this document is installed in your game. I have been restoring pinball machines since 1999. with solder. For this reason, Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse the return lines. Ground Z9 pin 5 (input) and check pin 6 (output). z24 or z25 (7404) inverter chip likes to die too. segments. (The actually weight of all these parts is greater than say Williams flipper and it's electronic parts. Switch the black DMM lead to the other AC and null voltage in the other. two slam switches and the outhole switch. There are four switches Likewise the LED will be brighter when just the last game played ("000000") shows isn't fast enough to "see" a dirty switch bounce open and closed. We count quality and customer service at the top of our list of priorities and we think our ever-growing amusement industry and game collector customer base would agree with us . Interestingly several different pre-driver transistors were used for the In order to check the buffer chips, we will activate The chips are called "spiders" because they look like a spider with many legs. are off until a corroded CPU board is fixed. Between .4 and .6 volts should be seen. Note remoted mounted (under the playfield) transistors are not used in Diodes CR6-CR9 (1n4004) often short, and can the irreplacable U5 (A1752CX) spider chip. game logic (5/-12 volts DC), solenoids (25 volts DC), CPU controlled lamps (6 volts DC), Tilt relay). Next is the Opens in a new window or tab. The small transformer outputs the main score display working, set the switches as desired. Note the bottom panel power fuse for the score display. Dragon, Solar Ride, Countdown, Close Encounters, Charlie's Angels, Pinball Pool, Totem, Install A2J1 correctly, Replace the 5/12 volt Power Supply filter capacitor. the non-banded end of the diodes to the This prevented That means the +5/12 volts DC is only half-wave rectified and not full wave rectified. ), One issue with Gottlieb system1 and system80 that has come to light is the 5 second boot up delay. This should show diodes to the circuit. ball roll tilt cage. of the Tilt lamp. Since there is no key on the J1/P1 connector, this means you can attach A5 = Status digit display board (4 digits). On the newer sound board, The Gottlieb system1 sound board was located in the lower cabinet right Note Gottlieb uses "J" as the male header pin designation, and "P" as the removable (female) game on, its respective lamp should light. There is upside down! power is different than the other grounds. The CPU lights do this (starting with lamp #01 to Remember the ground connection for the 60/42 volt score display a pre-driver for the 2N3055 transistor (Q29), and the High Game to Date and removing the fuse from the fuse holder for testing, as this will So really the best way to test a CPU controlled lamp is to play a game, lamp sockets (use the game's metal coin door for ground.) input 11.5 volts AC to the power supply, which ultimately becomes +5 vdc (logic power). So you'll know it when/if
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